1940s Simplicity Suit Jacket Part 2

Well here it is! If you recall I posted a Part 1 of this 1940s Suit jacket. Well here’s Part 2. I left the last post with the shell completely sewn together and only the lining and finishings to do. Except for the side seams & sleeve seams, I hand sewed the entire lining into the jacket.

 

Slip-stitching the lining at the front, shoulders, hemlines & sleeves to armhole.

Before I attached the sleeves I made sure I basted the lining to the armhole.

I have to admit I was apprehensive about all that hand stitching but I remembered I said, I would try to sew and use the same materials as would have been used in the 40’s. So I just resigned myself to the chore (job :)) and got at it.

Once I got into the groove, it really didn’t take that much time and besides I could watch TV while doing it!

And you know the more I slip-stitched, the more satisfied and happy I became that I made that decision. So happy that I may never machine sew a lining to a jacket again :).

 

 

Below is the jacket just before I took out the basting stitches used to sew the canvas to the body (photo on the right) and then the completed jacket on the left. The end result looks pretty close to the sketch on the envelope. I say pretty close because the neckline doesn’t sit quite the same as the sketch but I can turn down the collar to look like a traditional lapel which makes up for the issue. In hindsight I should have made a muslin beforehand, where I could have fixed the collar. All in all I’m very pleased with the outcome.

 

I took the lead from the 2 other 40s jackets I own and had covered buttons made for the jacket. The instructions said nothing about adding smaller buttons at the cuffs & CB just above the inverted box pleat. They add a polish to the finished product.

 

I should have purchased 3 more though, that way I could have had 4 buttons at the cuff & 3 at the back. Oh well, I can always go back and get more made :).

 

Here’s a list of things I will do differently the next time I make a jacket from a store bought pattern:

1. Make a muslin. Not only because of the collar issue. Even though I know it’s the style, I think it could be a little bit shorter and a bit of the flare taken out.
2. I wish I had had the buttons made with the embroidered parts of the fabric. They would have popped out a bit more and looked more one of a kind.
3. Adjusted the lining when I cut it out so I would not have had to make adjustments for the fit while I was sewing it in. The lining pattern pieces were the same as the shell.

Well that’s it. I have wanted to make this jacket for years! And am so happy I finally did. Quite frankly if it wasn’t for this blog it still might not have been made it.

My next garment will be much easier and quicker to make; 1962 McCall’s wrap dress. It reminds me of a Butterick pattern 6015, from 1952, called ‘the walk-away’ dress. Dubbed so because it was so easy you could “Start it after breakfast… walk-away in it for luncheon!”. Hey I should try that! What time do you think I need to get up?

Lunch anyone?